NEW SEAL FOR TILLER

One reason I did a restart on Madeira was that the stering system jammed. Here is a better and lighter system. The rudder head has two pintles. The upper one is through the tiller and to the transom. That way the hole for the tiller to enter the cabin is minimal and easily sealed with a bellow. The picture show a model scale 1:2 of my transom. The two round rings indicate the windows.
This picture is more from the abowe. The torx screw on the transom indicates the pintle.

There will also be an outside tiller abouve for sheet to tiller and maneovring in tight places.

Four strong points have been added.
The hull is reinforced with several extra layers of glassfibre in NM-epoxy on inside and outside. There is large backing plates for the six M6 screws on the inside.
The strong points is made of 25 mm pipe. This helps to prevent chafe on ropes. I can lift the whole boat on any of the strong points. The two on the transom will be used in gales to tow chains. I have not used this technique before nor heard of anyone else using it but for a small boat I beliwe it is a good idea. Anywhay there is chain aboard for the anchor. The aft strong points is wery easily reaching standing in the aft hatch. No need to go on the deck. That would be cumbersome.

AFT DECK

Most of the work on the aft deck abowe the saloon is now done. What is left is to fillet and tape the seams between the different panels to get strong connections.

Below two pictures.

Me laminating. Håkan who took the pictures helped me with the laminating. The job took rather longer than I had expected. Luckily Håkan had patience. Thanks Håkan.
This morning was spent running for conditioning, but in the afternoon I remowed the peel ply and cut a hole for the hatch. I also turned the boat upside down that I can work on her deck from the inside in comfort.

To be continued…

Regards Yrvind

BYRÅLÅDSEFFEKTEN

Byrålådseffecten a english translation would be the drawer effect: This is what we engineers call the nuisance when a drawer gets stuck in a chest of drawers and it does not only happen to drawers; it happens to most sliding things that are wider than deep. It is a pain.
To avoid it I made an analyses and it turns out that the solution is surprisingly simple. Drawers that are wider than deep have little guidance and therefore not always move straight but turn. When they turn the short side of the drawer is not any longer parallel with the guiding sides. The drawer takes more space and gets stuck diagonally. The more you pull the worse the drawer gets stuck.
I said to myself: what geometrical figure does not get wider when it’s turned, obviously the circle, by definition. I use part of a circle segments have been cut away to make it almost like an rectangle. In this case when using it as a lid for the anchor locker I only lose 15 mm on the corners. Pictures will illuminate. A big lid would be to cumbersome so I devided into three peices.

Below some pictures.

Just for fun I did a simpel calculation using Pythogeras formula. I got 15 mm difference in the corners compared to a rectangle. That was fine. Of course it is more simpel to do it graphically.
Marking the corners to be cut with a compasses
The three pieces in place being now a strong easy handled lid for the anchor locker.
Finally holding down the lid with angle profiles of carbon fibers. The lid on the anchor locker is also my seat in the saloon. The two lunch boxes can be seen to left and right.

This idea of preventing narrow sliding broadside to jam can be used on many applications. Companionways are mostly shaped narrover at the bottom that the washboard will not get stuck by the byrålådseffekten. Its a bit magical how easy the boards now slide thanks to the rounding of the corners.

I have now started on the deck of the saloon.

To be continued…

Regards Yrvind

ANCHOR STOWAGE

The anchor stowage is now mostly done.

Below two pictures.

This is howe I moulded the carbon to secure the sharp ends of the two biggest anchors.
Now the two anchors are lashed down and secured. There is also a winch and winch handels. Handy to get the boat afloat again after running aground or the opposite hauling her up on a shore out of reach of the waves. When needed the winch is bolted down on deck. After use it is returned to its locker. Keeping the center of gravity down.

Next step is to do the lid and I got a good solution for that.

To be continued…

Regards Yrvind

STOWAGE

A place for everything and everything in its place. It is important to get thing secured and easily accesible. That requaries a lot of detail and that takes time.

The arrangement for my bedroom is now nearly done. Today I finished lockers for my note pads. They are in A4 format and square lined 5 mm. Kollegieblock we call them and I really love them. I have used them since the 50-ies. They are exellent for drawing boats on using scale 1:40. One square then has a side of 20 cm, half a square is 10 cm.

Ipad and small computers also fit there. Two of these lockers are on each side. I use sliding lids. They work well I have used them on a few boats before 1968 the first time and on Exlex now 2018. The present ones are made of Tufnol a nice material I find.

Below some pictures.

The two sides. Port side the forward locker open. Starboard side both lockers closed.
The closed one
The open one
On the starboard side is a place for a one liter water bottle, the daily ration. Later I will secure the lids and the bottle.
I have now started with the anchor locker. It is below my seat between the lunch boxes. The pieces of carbon fiber is to be used for laminating a down holder on the chisel points of the SPADE anchors. I will bring three, 5.5 kilo, 9.5 kilo and 16.5 kilo. I hope I have never to use more than the 5.5 kilo one. The 5.5 kilo anchor will live assembled ready to use in the forward part of the boat.

To be continued…

Regards Yrvind.

BACK ONE STEP

Working on the ventilation ducts, the one for incoming air and the one for outgoing I had forgotten  the interferences that always cases problems. Luckily in the last minute I noticed a note telling me not to forget the stearing ropes and a deck fitting. This was on the port side.  Then silly enough doing the starbord side where there is no stearing rope I forgot that there is a deck fitting bolted to the inside. I have to cut up the starbord duct later to fit it. That cannot be done before the aft deck is in place. It would be more easy to do it now.

Below two pictures.

Building up the ducts piece by piece. The boat is upside down.
The boat is still upside down. The picture have been rotated. Its on the left side on the edge where the bolts holding the deckfitting enter. I have to cut a hole to put on nuts and washers. The nuts will slightly reduce air flow. I have to live with that. I have to try to remember to next boat. When you are experimenting, when you are the first to try something, boatbuilding can only be understood backwards.

I will now cover the ducts done with glassfiber, turn the boat on even keel and continue elsewhere. Later I come back to the ducts. It will be more difficult to make them then becoause the aft deck will be on, but I do not build this boat because I like to have something easy to do. It will be a very good boat that will sail a wonderful voyage, so will be the next project as the previus ones have been. This life keeps me happy. Please donate that I can continue this wonderful life. If you enable me to do mistakes it will safe you from making them.

To be continued…

Regards Yrvind.

THE VENTILATION COMPLEX

A boat should be dry inside even in heavy weather, and even after having been capsized and pitchpooled. At the same time it is a good thing to have a functioning ventilation system. Fresh air is a good thing.

1974 while attempting to round Cape Horn, I and the 20 feet boat I had built in my mothers basement the boat was capsized. A weak later in some of the strongest winds I have ever experienced she was pitchpooled.  Water had entered through the ventilaters and created a mess. To avoid a repeat I figured out a system that would keep the boat dry. Two years later working with multihull designer Dick Newick on Marthas Vineyard I built my first system. It was provisional, just two hoses I put up when the waves started to break. On the boat I built 76 – 79 I made a permanent system, a aluminumtube from the deck to the bottom of the boat.

On Amfibie -Bris 85  – 89 I added a transverse duct so that intake an outlet was diametrically opposite.

On the yellow boat that I 2011 sailed to Martinique in I added a trap to the Doradebox thuse all the incoming air separated from water went into the cabin.

Now on Exlex Minor there is no deckhouse there is also stearing ropes that passes through the bulkhead with the two ducts of incoming and outgoing air and the door rotating around a horizontal axis is also there to add to the complexity in the region. This makes thinking necessary. However by slowly approaching the problem I now see a way. To simplify the problem, I have started with the given, a hole in the boulkhead and later I will do holes for the cowl vents in the deck. Then I will connect them with ducts that do not crossing each other.

Below some pictures.

I made a mold for the cowl vent of Divinycell then wrapped it in Teflon thread seal tape that the NM-epoxy would not stick to the Divinycell.
The mold ready to take the carbon fiber. I stypidly made the error of using long tapes and wrapped it in peelply. It became a mess. Later I fixed it a bit with smaller pieces. Next time I know better. One learns.
If having time after test sail I will making new ones more beautiful. These ones are strong enougf.
The start on one duct. This will take time. The hole in the bulkhead can be seen as white dot.
The hole from the other side
A sketch of the trap -water seal
A sketch of the developed system to let see that the two ducts dont cross. The reason I do avoid crossing ducts is that they steal to much headroom.

There is plenty to do Christmas and New year will be spent working on the boat. If you have any money left please donate to my project. It is good for mankind with smal safe shallow draft ocean going boats propelled by sail and oar.

To be continued…

Regards Yrvind.

MORE ON THE DECK

Tonight I have with the help of Stefan and Håkan laminated the outside of the deck.

I asked Stefan if he could give me a hand. I have 30 minutes he said after that I must go to a consert. Work took much longer after over an hour he had to leave. Lyckily Håkan turned up and stayed to the end, thuse rescuing me. It was filling the gaps I had cut to be abel to bend the top part of the deck that was the problem. The gaps used upp a lot more NM-epoxy thickend with silica than I had estimated. I had never done that before and sometimes new thing takes longer than planned. In the end thanks to my friends evrything went well. I am now ready to start designing and build the important ventilation system. Boats do capsize and pitchpoole. Whats happening in the Golden Globe race 2018 amply demonstrates that stormy weather do capsize boats that sails in high latitudes and causes a lot of damage. I belive that only a small boat well designed can come out of bad weather with no damage.

Below are some pictures.

Me inside Exlex Minor. With my left hand I am holding a cut out of the window from the 2011 boat I sailed to Martinique in. It would be nice to have a window that size on that spot. To the left in the picture, to my right is the mastholder. There is plenty of headroom in this boat.
Me putting peelply on the laminated surface. Håkan took the picture.

To be continued…

Regards Yrvind

STARTING THE DECK

Today I have with the help of Håkan started the deck abouve my bedroom.

Here are some pictures.

With the help of lead weights the preshaped deck is pressed down on the bulkheads. NM-epoxy with silica is used to fix it.
The foreward buklhead, me in the background.
Almost the same picture.

To be continued…

Regards Yrvind

DEADLOCK

There’s a Hole in My Bucket” is a children’s song, based on a dialogue between two characters, called Henry and Liza, about a leaky bucket. The song describes a deadlock situation: Henry has a leaky bucket, and Liza tells him to repair it. To fix the leaky bucket, he needs straw. To cut the straw, he needs an axe. To sharpen the axe, he needs to wet the sharpening stone. To wet the stone, he needs water. But to fetch water, he needs the bucket, which has a hole in it. Harry Belafonte made a famous record of it in 1960 well worth listening to.

After finishing the hull and I started to make the lunch boxes, but before installing them I had to do the ventilation system so I started in my bedroom with the stovage, but before finishing that I had to do the ventilation system but before doing that I had to do the deck, but before doing the deck I had to do the mastholder.

I have also started on the coamings for the two hatches.

Now the mastholder is done ready to be installed, the deck is laminated on the inside ready to be put on, in other words the deadlock is broken. Soon there will be some progress.

Below some pictures.

Marstöm Composite have kindly let me using prepreg carbon fiber and acces to their autoclave to do the mastholder. Here the product in a vacuum bag ready for the high temperature and big pressure. The pressure is outside the vacuum bag.
Me next to the mastholder it has a 60 mm inner diameter.
Here are the molds for the deck abouve my bedroom
The Divinycell on the molds. The reason for the big curvature of the deck is to get a shallow draft boat selfrightning without a big deep ballasted keel. To bend the 3 cm Divinycell 2 cm cuts vere made lenghtwise in the Divinycell. The Divinycell is then loaded with lead at the molds, between it is laminated with NM-epoxy.
When the NM-epoxy had cured I could remove most of the lead and put some at the ends. A deck with this much curvature is not to difficult to walk on besides I use my bedroom as a tunnel between the aft hatch and the forward hatch pretty much eliminating the need to go on deck.

To be continued…

Regards Yrvind.