THE RIG


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To get an idea how the rig will set up and to figure out the sheet leads, I asked and got permission of my kind neighbour Logpart, to move the boat into their place.
I attached eight small wheels to a pellet and put the boat on the pellet. She moved along nicely. It was the first time I saw the boat from a distance longer than about three meters. I liked what I saw. She will be a good boat.


I put up the mast. At first there was some confusion with all the ropes but I soon got the grips on it.
The rig is special in that it is stayed but got no standing rigging. It is a bit like a windsurfer mast. It can move around and it has al those advantages. Instead of holding the mast with my hands I use running rigging. The mast has a wing section and is rotating. In addition to that if I lean the mast to windward the boat will get a lee helm if I lean the mast to the lee the boat gets weather helm.
As all the shrouds are movable there will be no chafe sailing downwind. The lee shroud can be slacked after setting up a backstay and the boom can be let out 120 degrees making it more course stable and less likely to gybe. Instead of a spinnaker pole fitting there as an extra gooseneck and its toggle can easily be removed to save windage on a beat. I have a long and a short boom, a long and a short wisker pole for different wind strengths and the can easily be changed without leaving the cockpit.
My sponsor Göran Marström the Olympic Tornado Medallist, came and had a look. He did not object even if it was not his way of doing things. My boat is way to slow for him.
To be continued?


click on the pictures to make them bigger
To get an idea how the rig will set up and to figure out the sheet leads, I asked and got permission of my kind neighbour Logpart, to move the boat into their place.I attached eight small wheels to a pellet and put the boat on the pellet. She moved along nicely. It was the first time I saw the boat from a distance longer than about three meters. I liked what I saw. She will be a good boat.


I put up the mast. At first there was some confusion with all the ropes but I soon got the grips on it.The rig is special in that it is stayed but got no standing rigging. It is a bit like a windsurfer mast. It can move around and it has al those advantages. Instead of holding the mast with my hands I use running rigging. The mast has a wing section and is rotating. In addition to that if I lean the mast to windward the boat will get a lee helm if I lean the mast to the lee the boat gets weather helm.As all the shrouds are movable there will be no chafe sailing downwind. The lee shroud can be slacked after setting up a backstay and the boom can be let out 120 degrees making it more course stable and less likely to gybe. Instead of a spinnaker pole fitting there as an extra gooseneck and its toggle can easily be removed to save windage on a beat. I have a long and a short boom, a long and a short wisker pole for different wind strengths and the can easily be changed without leaving the cockpit.My sponsor Göran Marström the Olympic Tornado Medallist, came and had a look. He did not object even if it was not his way of doing things. My boat is way to slow for him.To be continued?

THE DORADE BOX


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In strong winds the dorade box is the first line of defense against water trying to enter the ventilation systen.
It should have a big volume be deep have a small inlet and a big drain. To prevent the incoming air going out the drain instead of coming into the living area I use a U-tube, familiar from the common verity of WC where it prevents bad smells from entering the house.

The picture of the finished doradebox shows that the boat is now also painted on the inside. The black handhold from the corner of the box also functions to prevent my delicate head from hitting the corner.

In Archive July 2008 I describe how the rest of my heavy weather ventilation system prevents water from entering the boat even if its upside down.

ALWAYS SNUG AND WARM


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Above. The frame for the hatch to the bedroom is getting in place.

Below. With the hatch on I will always be snug and warm in my bed. The theory is as long as I am comfortable and nothing breaks I can survive anything.

POINTS OF ATACHMENT FOR THE GRABRAIL

Above. I start with temporary attaching the grab rail with several wooden pieces screwed into the laminate and a piece of string. When the grab rail is in the desired position I remove half of the temporary pieces and replace them with high density (425 kg per cubic meter divinycell pieces shown to the right of the wood piece)

Below. I the lash with carbon filament unidirectional glass to get it into position. The ends are cowered with 45 degree glass cloth. The I use NM-Epoxy as glue covering it with peal ply to get a nice finish. Then I replace the temporarily wooden pieces with Divinycell and repeat the process wich is time consuming but gives very satisfactory result.

MY BIRTH DAY 22 APRIL 2010

TACK VARE VARATS OUTGRUNDLIGA REGELMÄSSIGHET FYLLER YRVIND ÅR I ÅR PÅ SAMMA DATUM SOM FÖRRA ÅRET, DEN 22 APRIL.

LIKT FÖRRA ÅRET TAR JAG DET SOM FÖREVÄNDNING ATT FÖR PERSONER MED POSITIVT INTRESSE FÖR LÅNGFÄRDSEGLING I SMÅ BÅTAR VISA HUR MITT VERK UNDER DET FÖRFLUTNA ÅRET HAR FORTSKRIDET.

PRESENTER VILL JAG INTE HA, FÖRUTOM EN PIL OCH PILBÅGE AV SAM ATT JAG FISK MED. HAN HAR ARBETAT PÅ DEN TILL OCH FRÅN, MEST FRÅN, UNDER RASTERNA DET SENASTE ÅRET.

DET BJUDS INTE HELLER PÅ SAFT OCH BULLAR ELLER NÅGOT ANNAT JÄTTEGOTT.

PLATS BAUMANSGATAN 4 59353 VÄSTERVIK. TID 16 – 18.

ELECTICITY

The picture shows the first parts of the electrical system. One charger CHAMP III 12v/7A from PRIMEPOWER It is very compact and waterproof, ideal for a little boat.

There is also six 17 amp hours Exide Sonnenschein gel batteries. Gel batteries have a better cycle life, they can be cycled deeper and more times than Agm batteries. Agm batteries can are better for starting engines but on board there is no engine.

More about gel batteries

THE FORWARD PUMP

Forward of the forward bulkhead I have now installed a pump, manual of course. I do not expect a leak there, but when for example I am beating into the south east trades at the equator it can for a Swede be uncomfortable hot with hatches closed. Now I can keep the forward hatch open and now and then at ease pump out any spray water.

At the bottom of the fore hatch is a 16 mm stainless pipe in form of a triangle. To it I can tie down anchors and other stuff to keep them in their place. This is important.

To prevent water enter the back way I use a valve. Most marine hardware comes in King Size therefore I remade the handle to a smaller one. Also before the valve only closed one way, the wrong way to the left, now I can close it to the right.

Below the original handle and the new one.

SOME DETAILS

The above picture looks afoul, but the results are nice. Its a styrofoam mold covered with packing tape. Then I glassfibre it and get when done I get a nice detail.

Here is a mock up for the fore hatch to see how big an anchor I can stove.

The screw holds down the back window which can be opened in nice warm weather. The nut is bronze which will be glassed in with epoxy.

More later.

YRVINDS YULOH

The picture below shows the essential yuloh geometry. There are three points of importance. The centre of effort or pressure on the oarblade. The fulcrum and the point were the rope is attached. If you draw a straight line betwwen the centre of effort and the point were the rope is attached the fulcrum shall be a inch or two above that line to keep the thing in balance. Exactly how much is depends on personal preference.

The curvature of the traditional yuloh fixes these three points. On my boat it is not possible to have a curved yuloh as I will store part of my yuloh belov the fore deck in a carbon fibre tube. My yuloh is therefore straight.

To get the essential geometry I have added a removable piece at right angle to the shaft. At the end of that is the attachment point. By varying the length I can adjust the balance. That solves the problem of stowing the oar. It is also very convenient because I can use a straight pipe as oar shaft.

An other thing. Some people like to have the rope doing the twisting of the oar blade at each stroke. I do not agree, neither do the Japanese scullers. They have a technique that differs from the. They have a small handle at right angle to the oar shaft a bit like wrench to twist the blade to the desired angle. In that way you have control and can use the oar blade as an variable pitch propeller. Going against strong winds you use little twist and get much power but the boat mows slow. In calm weather you use much twist and the boat goes faster.

The yuloh traditionally uses a ball and socket at the fulcrum. It is simple to make but a universal joint like mine shown below has several advantages. As a yuloh replaces an engine and I use it a lot I do think it is worth to spend time and money on a better fitting. First the oar cannot jump out of the socket. Second it enables one to scull in reverse and row the stern around. This is very convenient when one maneuvers in tight places. And I do like to get into tricky places to discover interesting things.