April 25, 2015
BOLTED-ON BUOYANT AND FAIRED EXTENSIONS
Bolted-on buoyant and faired extensions. 2003 New Zealand used a â€ťhulaâ€ť a hull buoyant appendix on their Am Cup boat. It was protested against, but found legal. It was not bolted on but just attached in the very middle of the boat leaving a 5 mm gap to the real hull.
They where of course rule cheating but thatâ€™s legal, so would my Bolted-on buoyant and faired extensions be. I think it is the duty of a competitor to try to find loopholes.
Big companyâ€™s find loopholes and pay no tax.
When I started with the Around in Ten I had not studied the legal aspects of the race. Rudders are buoyant extensions not measured, so are hulas but all this is no fun. It leads to unhealthy boats. Yrvind Ten would in reality be legally about four meters long with the extension and I do not think I would be proud of cheating, therefore I decided to build a smaller boat.
Some people mind that I have changed my mind, but only idiots never change their minds. It is me who is going to do the sailing I therefore have the right to change my mind.
The note belov have been hanging on my wall for over a year.
The hull of the new boat is extremely easy to build. I know that the hull is the quickest part but I built a few other boats so I have something to compare with.
One side of the hull is already covered with 4 cm thick Divinycell.
To be continued…
April 23, 2015
CONSTRUKTION HAS BEGUNN
I have now started to work on the Divinycell. Below is a picture where I glue two sheets together. As clamps I am using rigging screws and Dynema rope.
Below is some pictures of the modell rigged for differnet wind conditions. First from the side with the wind aft.
The above picture shows the unstayed masts. They are leaning 14 degrees outboard. In heavy weather I will use the windward one and one sail. The mast then contributes to stability.
The total lenght of the masts are about 2.4 meters and less heavy than an oar and can easily be moved arond.
In real strong vinds I will use a short mast 1.2 meter long 0.9 meter above deck and a reefed sail.
This boat is much smaller than Yrvind Ten. Only a third of its displacement, 500 kilos with food and water ready for a long high altitude passage. I have lost interest in Around in Ten.
The boat I call her Yrvind XLX .5 is 4.6 meter long. The outside beam is 1.04 meter, the inside beam 0.96 centimeter. Headroom below deck is 0.7 meter. XLX stands for Ex Lex meaning without law, with the European Small Craft Directive in mind .5 means half a metric ton = 500 kilo.
Wheight is a better measure of size as it is more difficult to cheat with it.
To be continued…
April 11, 2015
THE FRAMEWORK READY FOR DIVINYCELL
The frame are now up and aligned ready for divinycell.
Abouve the stern.
The stem from abouve-
An other view of the stem.
To be continued…
April 8, 2015
TABLE OF OFFSETS
Belov is the table of offsets for Yrvind XLX. I have used the offsets for Boat Ideal 5.4 meter long and 1.4 beam and reduced her to 4.05 long by 1.05 beam.
The table is extremely simple as al frames are rectangular only height and half beam are given. For deck beam I use a parabola.
Belov are some point on the parabola. The fractions are squred. the crown is 10 cm.
Below are some of the frames.
They are closer spaced forward. The Divinycell is 4 cm thick therefore the outside will after being shaped have a compound curavture.
To be continued…
April 2, 2015
Yrvind 405 XLX AN EXPERIMENTAL BOAT
A PLATFORM TO TEST MY IDEAS ON
My appendix is already gone so in preparation for my coming long voyage it was only logical to pull out all my teeth except the front ones, which I think, in an emergency, I can handle myself. It took some convincing before the dentist was willing to do it. After one and a half hour I left the office bleeding in all the four corners of my moth.
When the anesthetic stopped I was not so shore that I had been so smart. During the first three weeks the pain kept me awake. To keep my mind occupied I started to write on a book: A dyslectics venturesome voyage. The manuscript is now sent to a publisher
For four months I have been writing twelve hours a day. During all that time I did not go to my workshop.
When I was out running, when I was eating and before falling asleep I did however think of Yrvind Ten finding out new smart thing and reflecting on the ones already done.
As Clausewitz pointed out, few plans survive the first contact with the enemy. I realized that all might not work as smoothly as I have envisaged. I have therefore decided to test the rig, the rudders and the new steering arrangement among other things and having some fun at the same time and acquire the necessary seamanship to proper handle the equipment.
To enable me to do that I will build a 3/4 version on the same lines as the 5,4 meter Boat Ideal. She will be a quarter of Yrvind Tens displacement
PARTICULARS OF THE YACHT:
Lenght 4.05 m or 13 feet 3 inches
Beam 1.05 mÂ or 3 feet 5 inches
Draft 19 cmÂ or 7 inches
Sail area 8 sq meter or 86 sq ft.
Displacement 422 Kilo or 930 pounds.
My rough weather hatch will be in fore end of the boat next to the side by side masts. There I will handle the sails. Going to windward thatâ€™s the wettest part of the boat. Therefore I will be running as I am used to. Now with twin rudders that I can individually adjust I can angle them outward creating a variable breaking force that will keep the transom to windward. Adjusting the rudders is done by a rope running the periphery inside the hull.
To avoid water and dampness enter the inside the ropes passes through the hull via cylinders. The part of the rope that is inside the cylinder will have piston rings or rather rubber washers to keep the water on the outside.
There is an aft hatch in bedroom. Normally it will not be opened in rough weather because if the bedding gets wet with salt water it will not dry. To overcome that disadvantage I am planning to learn to sleep without a matrass, then I can just toss my sleeping bag in a locker and no harm will be done if water enters. I will see if the years has made me soft.
I do not know what kind of problems that will pop up, therefore the testing.
What does XLX stand for? If a bureaucrat asks I will say Extra Large Experimental, if a friend asks I will say that it is Medieval Latin meaning, ex lex, bound by no law. I think an experimental boat deserves a bit of freedom early in her life.
The mast stands side by side. She has leeboards and twin rudders. She is built of 40 mm Divinycell laminated with NM-epoxy.
Below are some illustrations.
Above are the sections. The rounded lines are outside, the straight lines are lines from the inside of the hull.
Becouse the Divinycell is 40 mm thick I can shape her before laminating, thus getting a softchine hull on the outside and a hardchine one the inside. Where I take away to muck material I will compensate by gluing wedges on the inside.
The Divinycell gives flotation and insulation.
To be continued…
January 1, 2015
After I pulled my teeth I could not sleep in the night so I started to write. The writing went very well. Now I decided to finish the book.
The book is about dyslexia in general and especially how dyslexia have influenced my life.
My economical situation is uncertain and it takes a long time before the money of a book stats pouring in.
The work on the boat will be suspended in the meantime, but I be back with new vigor.
December 13, 2014
TIME IS PASSING
An uppdate. I have not done much on the boat lately. It gives me a bad conscience but I have to live with that.
What has happened is the dentist has pulled out 7 teeth. Preventive. Now there is only the front ones, the elegant ones left. It took the dentist one and a half houer to get them out. They were well anchored. I think tooth ache might be one of the big problems on a trip like the one I am planning. With only the front one left the problem is much reduced.
When I came home from teh dentist I went to sleep. After two hours I woke up I had pain and could not sleep. There are painkillers but my philosophy is aginst them so I do not use them. I think if you go for the soft way no good will become of you. This pain have now being going on for about three weeks. Now I feel fine and the wounds in my mouth is mostly heeled.
However my daily rytm have been changed a bit like jet leg. I am now awake in the night and sleep in the day. Soon I fix that to.
To amuse me I have been writing. It is a thing that has to be done to get me money. Progress is good.
I have been to Stockholm to give a talk. There I went to my editor at Norstedts to discuss the book.
Also in Stockholm I met my new adept a boy of 19 year that like to sail the deep waters. He met a kayak instructor living i Camarones Patagonia Argentina when kayaking with his father in Greenland. He has decided to sail to Camarones. He has bought an Hurley 22 fot that purpose. I will help him to modify it for the voyage making it better adapted to the kind of sailing he intends to do.
His name is Oskar Huledal. He is at the moment at a boarding school studing jazz musik. His main instrument is the saxofon. Oskar has a webb page:
The obove photo shows Yrvind and Huledal at the Stockholm bus terminal. I am giving him some books to study. I belive in information and being educated about what you intend to do.
the book I am showing is Two against Cape Horn by Hal Roth. There are five more in the plastic bag.
To be continued…
November 15, 2014
ON THE SIMPLEST TASK
Why would anyone spend time and money trying to find a solution to such a simple task as securing a hatch? Builders of production boats ignore the problem. Professionals try to get away with as little as possible, amateurs do their best. In this case the leek proof hatches subdivide my boat into a number of waterproof compartments. The stored items gets protected from the elements and in the unlikely case of the hull getting holed they give flotation or contain the damage to the holed compartment.
It is true that a wing nut style bolt head or a simple small “T” handle welded to the Torx bolt head would make it easier to undo the bolts without any tools. I try to reduce the number of objects that can hurt me. Thatâ€™s why I forgo that solution.
I do not think that I am likely to loose my Torx tool. 1976 I started to build a 19 feet aluminum boat. June 1980 I rounded Cape Horn with her. I divided the boat into several waterproof compartments bolting down the hatches more or less the same way. Obviously at that time there were no Torx bolts so I used hex heads. I had about 200 of those bolts on board. I still have quite a few of them M6 25 mm long. Not only do I have the bolts I also still have the tool. I used the same system on some of the hatches on Amphibie-Bris 89 sailing to Newfoundland and on Yrvind.com 2011 sailing to Martinique still the with the same tool. Torx tools are not cumbersome I will bring a score.
Foto showing the tool I used on my voyages since 1978. A bit rusty after the Martinique voyage but still functional.
Will the screws fail due to metal fatigue? I do not think so. There are fore M8 screws to each hatch. M6 would be plenty, even M5. I am even sure four M4 would do the job. There is plenty of redundancy.
Over center latches are good but here the geometry is not suitable for them.
Knots have been suggested. Knots are good. I have used them in in the sleeping room below the bed. Those hatches do not need to bee waterproof because the whole room can be sealed off.
I have knurled the screws. Thus on fine days I need only to screw them down with my fingers. When the sea starts breaking I tighten them up.
Have you ever been surprised at what a difference a few drips of oil can make to a rusty tool? The bronze washer is there to reduce friction and it works like oil. Now if by turning the screw the threads on the washer will be damaged so that it get stuck there permanently? So what? The better.
Photo showing knurls and cut away threads near screw head. I will bring hundreds.
Photo showing hatches in bedroom secured by lashing.
The system consists of three “cleats” and a string. There are twelv compartments below the bed. The matrass is divided into three parts for easy acces.
To be continued…
November 12, 2014
LONG TIME NO SEE
Long time no see. The reason is I am now working full time. After 16:00 I am writing a new book to finance the project. And before 16:00 I am working on the boat. Also to keep fit I have to take time of for that. Sundays and Wednesdays is running or kayak, Tuesday and Friday after 18:00 one hour exercises.
Also I am working on the interior now and it does not produce very exciting texts or pictures.
However because of the planned route the standard have to be much higher than on ordinary cruising boats, especially regarding stowage. Everything must be secured and waterproof. The back part of the boat, the sleeping room is the easiest part because the whole compartment can be closed of. The forward part is not so easy because water can come in through the entrance hatch when I have to open it for going on deck or work with the rigging or leeboards.
One more reason is I have been on the wrong track a few times and had to go back to square one which is time consuming.
And to be honest, I did work faster when I was younger, but of course did even more mistakes and more sloppy work then.
On the whole I have a nice time with my projects and enjoy life.
Below are a few pictures.
Abowe. The main closing hatches. Inside the compartments are subdivided.
Abowe: One of the main hatches. There is a 20×30 mm EPDM closed cell gasket running around the edge to prevent water from entering. The gasket is not glued but is squised into place, therefore wery easy to replace even at sea.
To transfer the closing edge I used thumb tacks.
an fuzzy close up.
The thumb tack and tejp.
The thumb tacks has marked a pice of cardboard. The cardboard is transfering the edge to the lid .
I did cinsider several was of closing the hatch. Finaly I decided on bolting it down. It not the quickest way but the strongest and most flexible and secure. It is easy to adjust the pressure on the gasket. It will take a few minutes to open the hatch. The process will be repeated thousands of times during the voyage. I did worry about stainless against stainless so I did a stress test. It sized up so hard it was impossible to mowe. I had to use the grinder to split the nut. I probably overdid the test but on the other hind I did not fancy being down the roaring forties with no acces to my food. I wanted to be sure.
I went back to square one and did fittings of aluminum bronze. It is ecceptionally wear resistant and you are well advised to use sharp drills.
the bronze fitting.
One fitting temporarily in place.
Bronze fitting and drain channel.
One of the drain outlets.
One of the screws temporarily in place.
To reduce friction I made bronze washers. In order not to lose them I threaded them like a nut. At the top of the nut, just below its head I remowed the threads on the lathe. Now the washer can rotate freely up there but not fall off. It works well.
To be continued…