Locking devices gets damaged by salt water therefore its a good idea to put your locks in a place not exposed to the elements during a passage. During the years I have used several methods depending on the hatch. My hatches nowadays are sliding but they also can be clamped down into a gasket. Therefore they have to move not only forward but also a bit up and down. That complicates things a bit. To overcome that I use two padlocks, one on each side of the hatch. Of course it is very easy to break into a boat, even a small crewbar easily opens any hatch. The idea is to make the boat look locked. I think two padlock gives a better messages than one, but it is because Exlex hatch slides on ropes that I use two padlocks.

Pictures below.

One padlock in each end keep the hatch locked and hopefully deters undesirable characters.
A close up at one of the padlocks. These Finnish padlock has a robust mechanism. The string is to prevent the padlock from falling overbard when I am clumsy.
The two holes with nuts is to screw down the hardware in port when needed. At sea they are stowed below.

To be continued…

Regards Yrvind


At present I am at work at the lower rudder fitting. There has been some welding on it. Welds tend to distort metall so also in this case. The Delrin or POM or Acetal bearing did now not fit. Best way would be to ream the hole. Reamers are expensive and I did not have one 29 mm that was required. As an alternative I grinded it down to size using emery tape wrapped around a stick. To help me I used my dear Blomqvist lathe. Now in general it is not proper to grind on a lathe, but Exlex is more important than the lathe. Also I very carefully vacumed the lathe after finished work.

Below photo and a video.

The lower rudder fitting with the Delrin bearing finally in place
The pintle inserted and it turns nice and smoutly. To the pintle will be welded 4×40 mm stainless steel plates 400 long to hold the rudder head. The bottom plate is 6 mm thick . The triangular 12 mm thick piece with two 13 mm holes is to protect the pintle. The holes is there so that me can insert a 10 mm Dynema rope if I need to lift the boat or drag it or handle it

To be continued…

Regards Yrvind


Today and yeasterday everything takes time, I have been working on cleats and hooks to fix the forward door in open and closed position ( there is also possibilities if so desired to fix the door in intermidiate positions, for exampel in rain or hard on the wind when spray is flying.

I use cleats and hooks and string or thin chock cord to get tension.

Abstract I like to have axial rather than radial forces. That is I like to have the string pulling the door towards the bulkhead.

Below photos:

The cleats and hooks are made by gluing Tufnol to plywood using NM-epoxy. The bolts are weights while the glue is setting
In this picture you can see how the string is pulling the rotating door towards the bulkhead. I do better knots later and use shock cord.
This picture shows the door closed. To the right is the dagger board trunk. Clicking once or twice on the picture you may also see the horisontal axis that the door rotates around.
The door is now open hidden behind the dagger board trunk, you may see a tiny strip of it and the pin. Behind the open door is my sleeping room, behind that one more rotating door, then the aft cabin. Exlex is very spacius and sympathetic. She bee very comfortable to live in for one or two persons.
The string, 3 mm – 1/8 inch, when the door is open stays on the cleat nicely coiled, ready to use.

To be continued…

Regards Yrvind


Abouve two short videos on the dagger board trunk.

I am trying to learn how to splice them together to make longer videos but so far no succes.

I spend my time on the boat so there is not much time for this activity but I thought better a bit than nothing.

Progress is good but time consuming. Luckily the result exceed my expectaitions so I am happy.

To be continued…

Regards Yrvind


Thanks to Anders Jessen Watski Denmark and Katarina Frisell International Paint Sweden I now have paint for my boat.
Here is a link to a video I have uploaded on Youtube.

I used imovie. It was the first time and I think I made most of the mistakes one can make, but like sailing, experience and knowledge comes by practice. Give me a few years I will be better. I know it should be landscape format I know there should be sound. The sound was there yesterday but it seams to be gone now. There was also some fotos attached. I try again to fix it, but there is also much to do on the boat. and thats priority.

Tomorrow I will cut a hole in the deck and an other one in the bottom of the hull. It is the daggerboard case that will be fitted.

My reference from International Paint Company 1954. Click on the picture once or twice to enlarge.

I used to work for the International Paint company, in their laboratory as an assitant. The year was 1954. Below is a picture an reference.

Below a leaflet from an boat show 1976.

Leaflet from floating boat show 1976 Göteborg Sweden.

I will try to do more Youtube videos, slowly improving their quality. Their you can leave comments that I might answer if I have time. At this point I do not know how to add an subscription button but try I think that there is a way.

To be continued…

Regards Yrvind.


Here I get help of Stefan to grind the coamings flat.that will take the hatches, more precisely the gaskets of the hatches. The bottom of the  holders of the gasket is also flat bebouse I have poured NM-epoxy into it. Thus agot two very flat matching surfaces. That will make a thight hatch.

The hatch and the rim that will hold the gasket. Into the rim I have poured NM-epoxy that makes a leval surface.

To be continued…

Regards Yrvind


The hatches are on their way. Abouve is a video of me testing the waterproofness of one of the hatches.

No leaks not one drip even after 5 houers filled with water. In the video the hatch is upside down.

The hatches have taken a long time building, but for me this is part of a seawrthy boat. Together with the ventilation system and the well built boat this ensures that no water can enter the boat wathever the conditions even with the boat upside down. To have a boat that is always dry gives peace of mind, no reason to worry about storms, you know your boat can handle any weather.

Below are pictures.

The mold for the coaming is made from styrofoam.
Starting to build the mold for the part of the hatch that will hold the gasket.
The mold done and waxed.
The idea is that the gasket is not glued in placed. It just fits very tightly. Therefore no problem of changing the EPDM-gasket made of foam. The disadvantige in production no release angle of the moald. The mold is only good for one piece.
Now the hatch is getting nearly ready, the Divinycell is laminated with NM-epoxy. The corners are being reinforced with carbon fiber to hold the clamp down screws. The gascet is in place covered with a Nylon vacuum bag to prevent NM-epoxy to fill the place where it lives.
I am doing oversize bronze nuts to help align the gaffs that takes the M8 clamp down screws.
One of the gaffs being aligned.
To make sure that the bottom of the gasket holder is flat I have poured a bit of NM-epoxy in the holder. Nothing is as flat as hardened NM-epoxy.
Fitting and laminating the inner coaming of the aft hatch.

Hopefully more about the hatches will be on this website to make it more clear.

To be continued…

Regards Yrvind.

If you like my work please contribute.




He ask if it is not better to have more dense material in rudder and centerboard as not to stability due to flotation.


Yrvind answer:

Heavier materials low down will give more stability. Added lead will give even more stability. In the case of the centerboard, when the board is raised, more weight will make the boat lose stability.

Almost every boat is designed as if it was to be a racing boat and the same with books about yacht design. Exlex is intended for cruising, when cruising I sail mostly down wind, even though I plan to round Cape Horn, 50° south to 50° south, east to west. Exlex is designed as a low energy boat and cruise at low Froude numbers around 0.3 this reduces the energy needed to about 1/6 of a conventional boat. See my Manifesto for a more detailed explanation.

More weight in the appendices will put more strain on them; they have to be designed more heavily. This added weight would make the boat slower down wind. It will also make the boat bigger and heavier and more expensive.

I think most boats are sub optimized for windward work. Neither do I think a cruising boat shall have weather helm.

Regards Yrvind


Here is a report on the progress on work on the rudder and centerboard.

Some photos below.

I used a NACA- profile with a cord of 400 and 40 beam. To simplify I used a piece of the rudder from my chinerunner I 2011 sailed to Martinique with. I had made the rudder rather long and this is a bit I had cut of. Even this rudder and CB is long, but it is very easy to cut of a bit and difficult to add so in my experiment I make the fins a bit long. I have glued a pice on the aft end and put 3 strips of masking tape at maximum beam to add 0.7 millimeter to make it lay flat on my table saw. Mowing the fence and raising the blade to touch the rudder piece I got a guide that helped me to copy and get a new NACA profile. With this help I cut the Divinycell after that I used a pen to mark the bottom of the cut then grinding away the rest.
Peter was kind enough to help me.
A side viuw.
From a different angle
Laminating, using NM-epoxy 3 layers 450 gram glas + one extra layer from the root halfway down. The Divinycell is H130 130 kilo a kubic meter. The work went fine.
Rudder and center board paiteintly waiting for more work to be done on them.

To be continued…

Regards Yrvind.

Please help to support my project. Kindly donate money on pay pal or Swish.


The deck is now laminated on the outside. Inside I have to do the fillets and taping so the boat is now uppside down once more.

I have also weighted the boat she came out at 426 kilos. That is to my liking becouse her waterline is 5.5 meters or 18 feet. There is not much more to add except the rudder and centerboard the hatches and a few odd and ends. Anchor and lead batterys will also add weight but a guess is that the painted boat will be about 600 kilos me and food and water for 60 days will add about 200 more kilos. To me it seams reasonable the she will weigh about 800 kilo at the start of a ocean passage. That gives a displacement ratio of 137.  Most cruisers land somewhere between 300 and 450 at the start of a passage, racers are lighter. The figure for to be able to plane given is belov 150. There are of course other criteria for to be able to plane as a suitable hull form. I think Exlex minor has such a hull. Where she does not shine is sail area to displacement, but wind pressure increases with the square of wind speed. Given enough wind and down wind she might be able to plane, but that is speculation. Hopefully I might find out coming summer.

Me in the fore hatch from where I can handle th fore sail. A tunnel through my bedroom and the saloon leads to the aft hatch from witch I can handle the aft sail. A safe lay out for a man born 1939.
Weighing the boat Aft measurment 285 kilos Fore measurment 141 kilos Distance between points 299 cm I use that number if I like to calculate longitudial center of gravity.  426 kilos total.

To be continued…

Regards Yrvind.