I am mocking up the doors between the inner and outer compartments. The idea of the inner compartments is that they shall stay dray at al times whatever the outside conditions. The outside compartments is for manouvering, tending sails, anchoring, oarwork and such. Those activities will be done from the hatch like the man in the kayak. The inner compartments are for sleeping reading writing navigating deigning and such also the saloon for eating and leasure with a 360° from the deckshouse.
Peter have helped me filming a video showing the rudder and bow centerboard.
The idea was to have a centerboard in the rudder as well and the control lines coming up thrugh the rudder axis. To make it simpler I have increased the depth of the near vertical ballasted chinerunners to 20 cm under the hull. The hull will draw 23 cm at one ton. So total draft will be 43 cm just guessing. That leaves the rudder 3 cm abouve the ground.
Its a spade rudder with a 60+ mm diameter stainless pipe as axis. That axis and its bearings should be more strong than a normal skeg.
The bow centerboard also comes along well. I have found an arrangement for the control lines.
I would have liked to have a deeper rudder. But its a balance between dept and simplicity. Hopefully it will work. If not I change it.
Below two pictures.
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Today I remowed the last mold and weighed Exlex the Canoe Yawl. As the hull now stand with three bulkheads she is 11o kilos. The hull surface is about 17 square meters. Headroom is about 98 cm in the middle of the boat. She have negative sheer by 10 cm.
First. I hypothesize that chinerunners work as deflectors, not as hydrofoils. Deflectors are concave surfaces that redirect what hits them. According to Newtons third law the more water the chine runner deflects to lee the more the boat gets pushed to windward. When the boat is heeled, the hullside together with the chinerunners creates a lot of lateral area. Unlike the ordinary keel I think the Bernoulli effect plays no significeint role here. This may explain the chinerunners remarkable efficiency and why they are so misunderstood.
Second like bilgekeels they protect the boats bottom at low tide.
Third they let me put the lead ballast a bit lower.
Forth they keep the lateral resistance high up those decreasing the heeling moment. Everyone realizes that a sail center high up heels the boat more than a low one. Not every one realizes that a lateral area high up heels a boat more than a lateral area deeper down.
Fifth the chinerunners reduces rolling.
Sixt It is likely that they prevent that turbulence a nd vortices are created along the chines thus reducing resistance.
Seventh. As the boat heels so much that the windward chinerunner lifts out of water the volyme of the windward chinerummers now mowes to lee and becomes boyancy in the lee side thuse creating extra rightning moment kind of like a submerged trimaran that lifts its windward float. The effect is not big but it helps.
Its the combined advantages of the many small advantages that makes me chose them. If at all time you can increase your efficiency even by a small bit, in the end you be doing good.
I did the line with the help of a laser beam. I heeled the boat 22.5°. That is easy on a small boat especially if you have 6 chain hoists above.
Finding sheer with the help of an inclined plane is nothing new. I guess its been don for thousands of years with the help of a string and a stick on the stem and stern. Just angle the sticks to the desired degree. This has the advantage that on a bigger boat you do not have to heel her.
At the same time I did a sheered waterline.
The hull is now on even keel. I know that the result of the operation might as planned because the hull was only fastened to the molds at the bottom. I did the lifting by the molds as can be seen in the first picture if you click to enlarge. I did shape the hull by eye to get a good shape did not follow the molds to closely.
In some places there is distances of several centimeters between hull and mold. The hull have to my eye nice harmonic shape. I liked to have a look inside before commiting myself. But it is not strong very wiggly. It will be strong later.
To get more controol and increase my chanches of a positive outcome I bought 2 more chainhoists. I now have six in total. 3 on each side. When I turn the boat left becomes right and I have to change attachment points. Now with 3 on each side I can take the load on the middle or the outer when I shift. The boat is now 2 meter longer and many times she will have to be turned around. It have never been soo easy as today. I good investment I think.
Cleat maybee not but a device for securing a rope. It started as a handhold on Exlex but soon due to its increadible strenght was also often used as a device for securing ropes.
Now on the Exlex the Canoe Yawl it will replace the stainless fittings. Its a fraction of the cost, a fraction of the weighrt, takes a fraction of the time to make and it distributes more easily the forces over a wider area the basic idea of strenght.
Things work well. The new molds are cut and are on the strongback. One side is scarfed and up. It was a good decision to change my mind. The new version is smaller and simpler. Much is gained by that. I also changer from schooner to yawl rig. The two forward side by side sails are each 3.6 square meter about the size of an Optimist dingy. The mizzen sail is 1.7 square meter.
I plan to have ballasted near vertical chinerunners 20° out and a bow centerboard like Amfibie Bris also a centerboard in the rudder.