Today and yeasterday everything takes time, I have been working on cleats and hooks to fix the forward door in open and closed position ( there is also possibilities if so desired to fix the door in intermidiate positions, for exampel in rain or hard on the wind when spray is flying.
I use cleats and hooks and string or thin chock cord to get tension.
Abstract I like to have axial rather than radial forces. That is I like to have the string pulling the door towards the bulkhead.
Thanks to Anders Jessen Watski Denmark and Katarina Frisell International Paint Sweden I now have paint for my boat.
Here is a link to a video I have uploaded on Youtube.
I used imovie. It was the first time and I think I made most of the mistakes one can make, but like sailing, experience and knowledge comes by practice. Give me a few years I will be better. I know it should be landscape format I know there should be sound. The sound was there yesterday but it seams to be gone now. There was also some fotos attached. I try again to fix it, but there is also much to do on the boat. and thats priority.
Tomorrow I will cut a hole in the deck and an other one in the bottom of the hull. It is the daggerboard case that will be fitted.
I used to work for the International Paint company, in their laboratory as an assitant. The year was 1954. Below is a picture an reference.
Below a leaflet from an boat show 1976.
I will try to do more Youtube videos, slowly improving their quality. Their you can leave comments that I might answer if I have time. At this point I do not know how to add an subscription button but try I think that there is a way.
This is a video of the idea of the daggerboard.
It is placed foreward of the saloon/sleepingroom therefore it does not to any great extent interfere with living conditions.
When lowered there is space in the daggerboard case for the top of the daggerboard to mowe foreward thuse the bottom part can mowe aft creating the same effect as an crumple zone in a car. On the wind Exlex might mowe with 3 knots or 5 km an houer compared to 1oo for a car still the crumple zone about the same lenght.
Enjoy, regards Yrvind
Here I get help of Stefan to grind the coamings flat.that will take the hatches, more precisely the gaskets of the hatches. The bottom of the holders of the gasket is also flat bebouse I have poured NM-epoxy into it. Thus agot two very flat matching surfaces. That will make a thight hatch.
The hatches are on their way. Abouve is a video of me testing the waterproofness of one of the hatches.
No leaks not one drip even after 5 houers filled with water. In the video the hatch is upside down.
The hatches have taken a long time building, but for me this is part of a seawrthy boat. Together with the ventilation system and the well built boat this ensures that no water can enter the boat wathever the conditions even with the boat upside down. To have a boat that is always dry gives peace of mind, no reason to worry about storms, you know your boat can handle any weather.
Below are pictures.
Hopefully more about the hatches will be on this website to make it more clear.
He ask if it is not better to have more dense material in rudder and centerboard as not to stability due to flotation.
Heavier materials low down will give more stability. Added lead will give even more stability. In the case of the centerboard, when the board is raised, more weight will make the boat lose stability.
Almost every boat is designed as if it was to be a racing boat and the same with books about yacht design. Exlex is intended for cruising, when cruising I sail mostly down wind, even though I plan to round Cape Horn, 50° south to 50° south, east to west. Exlex is designed as a low energy boat and cruise at low Froude numbers around 0.3 this reduces the energy needed to about 1/6 of a conventional boat. See my Manifesto for a more detailed explanation.
More weight in the appendices will put more strain on them; they have to be designed more heavily. This added weight would make the boat slower down wind. It will also make the boat bigger and heavier and more expensive.
I think most boats are sub optimized for windward work. Neither do I think a cruising boat shall have weather helm.
The deck is now laminated on the outside. Inside I have to do the fillets and taping so the boat is now uppside down once more.
I have also weighted the boat she came out at 426 kilos. That is to my liking becouse her waterline is 5.5 meters or 18 feet. There is not much more to add except the rudder and centerboard the hatches and a few odd and ends. Anchor and lead batterys will also add weight but a guess is that the painted boat will be about 600 kilos me and food and water for 60 days will add about 200 more kilos. To me it seams reasonable the she will weigh about 800 kilo at the start of a ocean passage. That gives a displacement ratio of 137. Most cruisers land somewhere between 300 and 450 at the start of a passage, racers are lighter. The figure for to be able to plane given is belov 150. There are of course other criteria for to be able to plane as a suitable hull form. I think Exlex minor has such a hull. Where she does not shine is sail area to displacement, but wind pressure increases with the square of wind speed. Given enough wind and down wind she might be able to plane, but that is speculation. Hopefully I might find out coming summer.
I have been working on the ventilation systems for weeks adding piece to piece usually six a day to the ducts. The two ducts for incoming air and outgoing each cross the boat just below the deck two times, then incoming air is ducted down to the bilges outgoing air ducted from bilges up to the deck. There is also water seals to prevent air escaping but letting spray out. This work is not really visible , but it is done and I am finished with it and I am happy about that becouse it has been drawn out and made me work long houers. Also done is most of the work in my sleeping room and in the aft saloon.
The fore deck on the other hand have been done in a few days and have changed the look of the boat very much.