I belive that boat should be designed with inherent seaworthiness. That is boat is inherent seaworthy if it has a low level of getting into danger when the weather turns bad. For example my boats have centerboards that can be retracted when running downwind before a storm. That reduces the danger of broaching too. My boats are waterproof upside down, that in combination with freestanding strong masts and a secure place for all items eliminates the problems associated with capsize and pitchpooling. My body is fat adapted thus I do not need to eat or use the bathroom in bad weather. My boats steer themself. That eliminates the need for autopilots and windvanes that can break in strong winds.
I now also design the new Exlex, the Canoe Yawl as a symetrical double ender, . That way she can set a parachute anchor or drouge as desired from aft.
Sailing a boat with that low level of getting into danger when the weather turns bad is relaxing.
Below a video illustrates the thinking.
Thanks to evryone that has donated to support my project in connection with my 82 birthday the 22 of april.
Hi on the 22 of april 2021 I will if everything works out and the good Gods are willing, become 82 years of age. Very good. A big day for me. Cake will be eaten and even icecream in celebration. Please donate to my cake eating project and to my boatbuilding. Write if your donation is for the cake or for the boat in order that I will know where to put the money.
Update 2021 April 22 My friends at work gave me a cake. Picture below.
My boat project evolves nicely. Much more space than I had imaged. I only need 200 liter for water and 200 liter for 100 kilo food, musli and sardines, and some other stuff. The storage will be plenty more as can be seen in the video link below.
I had not realy planned this but now there is plenty of food to reach New Zealand in 200 days and 2.8 knot average speed from Madeira. The Canoe Yawl, new Exlex, will be 2 meter longer than the 2020 Exlex 7.8 to 5.8 meter, she will have twice as much sail area 8.2 square meter to 4 square meter. She will have the superior side by side biplane rig of the 2018 Exlex. I hope she will be lighter 1000 kilo with food and water compared 1090 for Exlex 2020 reason being she have no 138 kilo bronze plate and her bottom konstruction is much lighter. The near vertical chinerunners will take care of grounding forces. Stability she will get from water and batteries. The water I drink will be replaced by saltwater of wich there is a good supply. About twice a month the water in the jerrycans will be transfered to the 18 one liter bottles.
She will have pivoting centerboard instead of daggerboard, more easy to handle. She will have superior inner doors and many more improvements. Things are looking bright.
I now have two shots of vaccination. 18 March and 16 April. In a few weeks more time I have less risk of Corona. Then I try to fly to Porto Santo Madeira to do a summer sailing in the Atlantic going nowhere particular just floting around enjoing the deep blue endless eternal sea. When food and water is getting low I will head for Horta Azores with the plan to ship the boat to Sweden.
September 2021 I plan to continue the prototype, hopefully having it fit for sailing summer 2022. September. 2022 I intend to start the real composite boat. Work carefully taking my time sailing the prototype in the summers incorporating knowledge gained in the real product.
Exlex of 2018 and 2020 had daggerboads. They are simple to make but more complicated to control remotly with lines. On Amphibie Bris 15 feet long of 1989 I used a bow centerboard. I sailed her from France to Newfoundland. It worked well.
Now I try again. I like to have one line pulling the board up and one line pulling her down. The problem is to avoid that the lines interfer with each other or get jammed. The bigger angle the centerbord is tuned the bigger the problem. To get much useful lateral area I like to turn the centerboard down about 80°. Large lateral area is very useful when slowly forereaching into a gale. I prefer that method to heaving to. You can make some slow progress to windward in comfort.
The centerboard case is open at the deck. That way it is possible arrange with a lever to move the centerboard in the unlikely event of the lines breaking. I will use oversize lines. 16 or 18 mm or something like that. Big diameter lines are also less likely to get jammed between the centerboard and the centerboard case.
By being able to turn the centerboard with levers I can attach new controlling lines. Exactly how it is going to be done I have to work out but I have some Ideas. It will be more easy to see as work progres.
Here is a video. I will try to explain some of it feuters.
When a boat heels the sail area moves to lee, with that the center of effort and the boat gets more weather healm. With biplane rig if you drop the windward sail the center of effort moves to lee. The boat gets more weather helm. With a third mast, a mizzen to balance the center of effort stayes the same. Much as with a ketch if you drop the mainsail the jib and mizzen keeps the center of effort unchanged.
1964 I was a member of the Amateur Yacht Research Society. I did build a proa. To balance the sail area to lateral area I moved the sail sidewise to lee or windward untill equlibrium was reached.
Going to windward with a biplane rig is fine because both mast get free airflow like a biplane airplane.
Sailing down wind the rig is very stable and selfstearing with the sails sheated out more than 90°. With freestanding masts there is no chafe if you keep the lugsail on the lee side of the mast.
When I mix epoxy I do not use a pump even if it is a faster method. I measure epoxy on a scale to the 1/10 of a gram. Then I use 2 pot mixing. That is I first mix in one pot then I pour it over into an other and mix again. Molecules are tiny things. Always some get stuck in the mixing pot. If you pour the mix into a new pot you increase the distribution. To test this cut up a pot with some left over epoxy and most likely you can feel that the pot wall is sticky, an indication of bad mix. I repeat the process just to make sure.
Most people use the pump system as it is very convinient. It works well but I like to do as good as possible. I reason if I do my best at al times with everything even if the advantage of each operation is minute in the end I be better of. And in bad weather I sleep very well. I got a good conscience, I know that I have done my best if I still fail, so It may be. I am a stoic.
I am now trying to figure out the best stovage. There is plenty of space in the boat. This means that I have to be extra careful not to fill it up othervise the boat will be to heavy.
I have come up with a system cheap light and functional for locking the hatches. The first idea was with a rope in tension but it was not enough friction in the system despite the capstan equation. I took a walk and used the rope in compression instead. That works fine. I use rope hinges.
Here is a video shoving many details on Exlex 2020
The idea is to return to Porto Santo and my friends there. Load her up with food and water sail out into the Sargosso sea, the only ocean without shores and spend the summer there enjoying myself and thinking about Exlex the Canoe Yawl.
The return is planned to be in May when I am vaccinated. I got one shot thursday 18 this month. Next and final shot will be 16 of April. 22 April I be 82 years old. Beginning of May 2021 the plan is to return to Porto santo and Exlex. Peter just promised to drive me to the airport.
I am mocking up the doors between the inner and outer compartments. The idea of the inner compartments is that they shall stay dray at al times whatever the outside conditions. The outside compartments is for manouvering, tending sails, anchoring, oarwork and such. Those activities will be done from the hatch like the man in the kayak. The inner compartments are for sleeping reading writing navigating deigning and such also the saloon for eating and leasure with a 360° from the deckshouse.
Peter have helped me filming a video showing the rudder and bow centerboard.
The idea was to have a centerboard in the rudder as well and the control lines coming up thrugh the rudder axis. To make it simpler I have increased the depth of the near vertical ballasted chinerunners to 20 cm under the hull. The hull will draw 23 cm at one ton. So total draft will be 43 cm just guessing. That leaves the rudder 3 cm abouve the ground.
Its a spade rudder with a 60+ mm diameter stainless pipe as axis. That axis and its bearings should be more strong than a normal skeg.
The bow centerboard also comes along well. I have found an arrangement for the control lines.
I would have liked to have a deeper rudder. But its a balance between dept and simplicity. Hopefully it will work. If not I change it.
Below two pictures.
If you like my work please donate by the donate button. Corona have stopped me from earning money by giving public talks.